Our trek up Kilimanjaro began with the chips stacked against us. Somehow we managed to lose 3 bags in transit on 2 different flights into Kilimanjaro within 36 hours. We were fortunate to regain our two travel backpacks before the trek. We were grateful that Eric Reitze was willing to transport 2 additional gear bags from Denver as he flew out to meet us for the climb, however only one of the bags made it on time. Jamie was the one who suffered the most on the missing gear bag as the missing luggage contained most of his planned gear for the attempted summit of Africa’s tallest mountain. We debated on delaying the trek and waiting for the lost luggage but we were able to compile enough gear that Jamie felt semi-comfortable in continuing with the original start date of the trek. However, Jamie would be forced to attempt the climb up the 19,341 foot mountain with his tennis shoes. But his sneakers were Salmon XA Comps, perhaps the greatest sneakers I have ever owned, and they are covered in Gore-Tex. As for me, I was still reeling from a nasty stomach bacteria most likely contracted from somewhere in India. I felt terrible and had a severe lack of an appetite…something I needed for the climb up Kili. So, with some apprehension, we decided to press on with the trek.

Day 1: Our support crew was supposed to be 10 Africans strong. 1 guide, 1 assistant guide and 8 porters -with 3 porters doubling as cooks and a waiter. However, we never counted more than 8 Africans in our support crew. We started in high spirits and enjoyed catching up with Eric and Ryan Miller.

The first day’s task was to climb 4,000 feet from the Machame gate to the Machame Hut through lush rain forest. We began the hike in a light drizzle but it grew into a steady downpour. By the time we finished our 6 hour hike we were cold and drenched. We ate dinner in our tent that night (as we would most nights thereafter). The amount of rain had caught us by surprise and we spent several hours that night trying to dry out our shoes, socks and clothes over a single candle that our porters had provided.

Day 2: Our goal was to hike about 2,600 vertical feet from the Machame Huts to the Shira caves, which was only about 3 hours hiking time. When we woke it was still raining. We started the hike in rain and continued throughout the day in the downpour. We began to notice the condition of our porters and the amount of neglect they experience from the trekking companies. Many of the porters were only wearing gym shorts and beat-up-old tennis shoes that were clearly several sizes to big. These young men were clearly freezing and completely soaked from the downpour that we were all struggling with. We wanted to help these porters who carried heavy loads in insufficient gear but we realized that the main problem was the poor pay received from the trekking company as they clearly used the little money they were paid for food and for their families.

We arrived 3 hours later at our camp which looked more like this:
and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening in our tents hiding from the torrential rain and trying to dry out our wet things over a candle.

Day 3: We awoke to sunshine!! The mood in camp was instantly lifted as we laid our wet things out in the sun to dry. Eric and I had both run out of dry underwear and were forced to go ‘commando’ until we could dry out our existing pairs. We began the hike at 12,595 feet and planned to hike up the Lava Tower at 15,180 feet and then back down to 13,077 feet to camp at Barranco Huts. The first 30 minutes of hiking was in pleasant sunshine but the dreaded rain soon returned. We took lunch at Lava Tower in the freezing, pouring rain. This picture pretty much sums up the mood at the time (Ryan Miller):

We arrived at the Barranco Huts camp after a pleasant downhill leg (although it sucked to erase that much vertical progress) and the rain had subsided and we were able to enjoy our dinner outside for the first time.

Day 4: We only had a quick hike from the Barranco Hut camp to the Karanga Valley campsite, the final source of water before the summit. We were able to avoid the rain for our first full day and I think we had hiked above the rain clouds because you could still see them entrenched below us. We spent the night at 13,235 feet and enjoyed champagne, playing cards and finally….dry clothes (this would be our last full night sleep before the attempt to summit). I was able to return to wearing underwear again. However, I was still feeling terrible. My sickness was like a roller coaster; I would feel terrible and then it would subside and I would feel okay (about 60%) and push through until the feeling changed. I began to notice blood in my stool and was starting to become alarmed about my health. I decided to push onward and pray that better days awaited me.

Day 5: The plan was to hike from Karanga Valley at 13,235 feet up to the Barafu Huts at 15,295 feet. At Barafu we were supposed to rest all afternoon and into the evening and arise at 12am that night to begin our bid for the top. We accomplished the leg with no problem and enjoyed the sun the full day. However, we could not find sleep…maybe it was the buzz of activity around us from other climbers and porters, maybe it was just the sheer anticipation of the task ahead, whatever it was, we all did not sleep much more than an hour that day.

Day 6: We awoke from our brief cat nap at 12:00am. We compiled every single piece of warm gear we had and either wore it or stashed it in our backpacks for reserves. The task for Day 6 was monumental and it is Kilimanjaro’s best test of will, determination and strength. We needed to hike about 4,500 vertical feet in 6 hours to reach the summit of Kilimanjaro at sunrise. We would be given a quick 20 minutes to enjoy the top then it was right back down 4,500 feet for a quick nap then a descent of another 5,500 feet. All-in-all we were looking to hike for about 11 hours.

I was feeling mediocre at best but I was still anxious and determined to accomplish what I had came to Africa to do. We began the hike and the trail quickly turned into a sharp, uphill, zig-zag climb. I hadn’t found the appetite to eat much of anything before the hike and we were all operating on very little sleep. My strength was missing and I felt weak. My mood turned sour and I decided to throw on the Ipod and try to find some fuel in my music. I assimilated into, what seemed like, a slow-uphill-death-march on loose gravel and rocks. After a while every step felt as heavy as moving concrete pillars and every breath became more strained than the last. After a while no one spoke, everyone settled into silence…a struggle within had developed in all of us and we had to focus all attention inward towards winning the battle. I was climbing against hope….I was beyond tired. Every step became unconscious and I was stumbling out of extreme exhaustion and the effects of high altitude. And just when I was about to give in, to give up, we reached Stella Point. Stella Point was the apex of the steepest climb up to the summit; we weren’t to the top yet but we had passed the most difficult part. My second wind kicked in and a feeling of accomplishment started bubbling up inside me…..not yet! (I thought)….and suppressed it immediately. I couldn’t see the top, but I could feel it….. and that made all the difference. About another hour’s walk uphill and I could make out the sign signaling Africa’s highest point off in the distant light from the rising sun. The sun was rising and revealing all the magnificent glacier formations around me. For a while, I was awestruck, I could see the full moon on my left and the rising sun on my right and it produced the most beautiful combination of light my eyes have ever seen. We finally reached the last little crest and were finally on top of the Africa’s highest mountain and the highest free-standing mountain in the world….Mt. Kilimanjaro…up at 19,341 feet in the air. It was real cold and the air seemed as thin as paper….but it was all worth it….it was beautiful. I felt like I had won a major battle and I wanted to cry, scream and laugh all that same time.

Well the rest is pretty much history and it was a miserable 10,000 foot descent, something that doesn’t need to be recounted. Let’s just say it was a shockingly steep and rugged descent and our legs were not excited for the task.

Day 7: After our last night at Mweka Camp we had to descend another 4,000 feet to the Machame gate. We were done!!! The thoughts and conversations of hot showers, fresh clothes and Qdoba burritos consumed us. We headed straight for the hotel for hot showers and clean clothes, however, I would not be able to partake because I had the jeep drop me off at the nearest doctor. I was able to get the right medication and was back on my feet in a few days.

To sum it all up, I have just been constantly amazed at the strength of the human spirit on this trip…sometimes from myself. With the right mental fortitude our minds and then our bodies can overcome anything. Sometimes, I feel like I don’t push myself hard enough, but every time I do push myself to the edge I am always impressed at how my mind and my body can adapt to overcome the situation or the obstacle. I truly believe that challenges only make us stronger. So I ask you, have you challenged yourself lately?

I hope that you enjoy life, dream big and rise to any challenge that faces you in your journey.

Until next time, my friends, I love and miss you all.

Ryan

(Sorry it has been a while since I last posted…TIA (This Is Africa)…and good internet cafes are hard to come by. But we are in Uganda volunteering and loving it. You can expect an update on Uganda in the next 2 weeks. Meanwhile, Jamie has really been getting this photography thing dialed in and his pictures of Kilimanjaro are all almost frame worthy….hopefully he will put up a picture post soon.)

….Meantime check out my measly pictures of our Kilimanjaro trek on the photos page.

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